There are hikes that reveal a place, and there are hikes that feel like they're letting you in on a secret. Moinhos da Ribeira Funda, on São Miguel’s northeast coast, is firmly in the second camp. It’s not well-trafficked. There are no cafés in sight. But what you’ll find instead is something far more lasting: wide Atlantic vistas, worn cliffs, hushed ravines, and a coastal trail that makes you feel like you’re walking straight into the ocean’s sky.
The trail traces a rugged coastal cliffside, weaving through rock formations and low brush
We did this hike as the second part of a full-day tour with Atlantimagia, after spending the morning exploring the verdant waterfall networks of Moinho do Félix – Cascadas. And though both hikes shared a commitment to quiet immersion, this one brought an entirely different tone—windswept, elemental, open. The contrast was stunning.
Coastal solitude with Atlantimagia
As with our morning hike, we were guided by Chris, co-founder of Atlantimagia. Having already spent several hours with him, the rhythm of the group had softened into something warm and easy. There was no rush, just an invitation to keep moving toward the coast.
What makes this hike so rare is how few tour groups venture here. Partly because it’s remote. Partly because there’s not much nearby to upsell. But that’s precisely what gives the trail its magic—you’re unlikely to pass more than one or two other groups, if any. For most of the walk, it felt like we had the entire ocean to ourselves.
Starting the Moinhos da Ribeira Funda trail under a canopy of trees and clear signage
Chris brought the same attentive care as in the morning—pointing out native plants, small moments of erosion, and the ways wind shapes a landscape as much as water does. There’s a generosity to his style of guiding.
Early in the trail, before the path opens wide to the cliffs and coast, you’ll encounter a tucked-away waterfall cascading down mossy rock into a shallow pool.
It’s a quiet spot—shaded, fern-fringed, and easy to miss if you’re moving too fast. The sound here is softer than the ocean winds ahead, and it offers a moment of stillness before the drama of the coastline unfolds. For us, it felt like a kind of prelude, a green overture to the vastness waiting beyond.
Onward: narrow paths and big views
The hike traces through dense green cane grass and groves of wild ginger. Soon, you emerge into more open terrain: golden cornfields that ripple in the wind and edge toward steep drop-offs.
Here, the path begins to narrow. At points, it feels like a ribbon—just wide enough for your feet, with sea cliffs dropping to one side and swaying grasses brushing your shoulders.
Along the way, we spotted cows grazing near the cliff edge, unbothered by our presence. Their calm seemed to echo the mood of the trail: this is not a place for speed. It’s for slowing into the rhythm of the land.
This is where the trail becomes cinematic. A few stretches quite literally look like you're walking a stairway to the sky—a dirt path fading into the Atlantic horizon, with nothing but blue in front of you.
The views down to the water are breathtaking: waves crashing against black rock, and beyond them, the endless shimmer of open sea.
To your right, hillsides fold into each other, sculpted by time and weather.
At various points throughout the hike, you’ll see views back toward the town—a small cluster of buildings hugging the coastline in the distance, its red roofs bright against the green. These peeks toward human life felt grounding, especially when paired with moments of deep wildness along the trail.
The terrain undulates gently at first, then becomes steeper as you descend toward the valley. There are stone steps in places, and dirt inclines in others, edged with simple railings. Nothing overly difficult, but enough to make you pay attention.
Dense ginger plants and tangled tree canopy surround sections of the trail with immersive shade and filtered light
One of the most memorable moments was arriving at a moss-covered stone ruin, a small abandoned house with a striking red door.
It stood alone in a clearing, surrounded by tall grass and blooming lilies. It felt like something from a fairytale, a place you’d stumble across in a dream. There was time to pause, to sit in silence.
Flora, fauna, and quiet encounters
Compared to the dense vegetation of Moinho do Félix, the plant life here feels more wind-sculpted, more spacious—but no less lush. We passed through ferns unfurling in dappled shade, banana groves, and clusters of wild calla lilies standing tall beside the path.
Cactus blooms dotted the upper cliffs. And near the shaded lower sections of the trail, vines and mosses clung to the rock faces, alive with tiny wildflowers.
A calla lily and ginger lily bloom along the trail, two vibrant signatures of the island
This hike is full of quiet encounters: the buzz of bees in low grass, the shadow of a hawk overhead, the rustle of bamboo as the wind moves through. Every few meters brings a shift in texture or light. You feel like you’re walking through multiple worlds.
And while there are no massive crowds, you may cross paths with a local farmer or hiker, often with a friendly nod. It adds to the sense that you’re not outside of the landscape, but inside it—part of its rhythm.
The waterfalls at trail’s end
Unlike many hikes that begin with a payoff and descend from there, Moinhos da Ribeira Funda holds its gem until the very end: hidden waterfalls tucked into a green basin. They're not enormous, but it’s precise—graceful falls framed by moss and basalt. The pools below are dark and still, shaded by trees.
Narrow gorges shelter the trail’s waterfalls
We crossed a small footbridge to get closer, sunlight filtering through the canopy. The whole scene felt like a quiet chapel carved by time.
Terrain and logistics
This trail has a bit of everything: narrow ridge paths, open meadows, and shaded forest descents. It’s not difficult, but it does require a good sense of footing, especially in steeper areas. Some of the paths are quite exposed, and while not dangerous, they do demand attention.
Uneven stones and soft dirt slopes make this trail better suited to steady feet and good shoes
Sturdy shoes are important. A walking stick wouldn’t hurt. And if it’s recently rained, be prepared for some slippery patches. That said, Atlantimagia times the hike well—they know when the trail is in ideal condition and adjust the route accordingly.
Why we loved this hike
There’s a tendency in popular destinations to chase the most Instagrammable spots. This isn’t that. Moinhos da Ribeira Funda is lesser known.
Part of that is the lack of crowds. Part of it is the landscape itself—raw, minimal, oceanic. And part of it is how Chris facilitates the encounter. He doesn't just lead a hike. He guides a kind of attunement to the land.
For us, doing this hike after Moinho do Félix felt like a full-circle day: forest and coast, water falling and water waiting. Together, the two hikes created a portrait of São Miguel’s northeast that we wouldn’t have gotten any other way.
If you’re looking for a path that offers real solitude, sweeping ocean views, and an unfiltered sense of place—this is it.
Book the hike
We booked this as part of Atlantimagia’s full-day northeast waterfalls hike, which includes both Moinho do Félix and Moinhos da Ribeira Funda. It was one of our favorite experiences on the island.
Book their full-day northeast waterfalls hike here.
Highly, sincerely, recommend.
