Tucked into the lush folds of São Miguel’s volcanic spine, Caldeira Velha is the kind of place that feels almost magical—a warm, healing embrace from the earth, surrounded by dripping ferns, volcanic stone, and the gentle hush of the forest canopy.
Entrance to Caldeira Velha and one of its geothermal sources, where iron-rich waters meet dense rainforest
Just 15 minutes from Lava Coliving, it's one of the island’s most enchanting geothermal sites—a kind of tropical intimacy that’s rare in the world, and even rarer in Europe. For those living and working remotely on the island, it’s a quick escape into otherworldly green.
Why we keep returning
We’ve visited both Caldeira Velha and the more well-known Poça da Dona Beija—and while we loved both, there’s something about Caldeira Velha that makes it our favorite. Dona Beija is a bit fancier, more polished, and it definitely has its place. But Caldeira Velha feels more like nature hasn’t stepped aside—it’s still very much in charge.
Pools at Caldeira Velha, where mineral-rich waters flow through lush volcanic forest
The pools are edged in stone, modest in size, and wrapped by towering trees and layered ferns. When you’re floating there, the canopy above looms with such quiet power that you start to feel like a small speck in a rainforest’s dream.
Geothermal pools at Caldeira Velha, surrounded by towering tree ferns
The proportions—pool to tree, human to backdrop—subtly shift your perspective.
The pools and what to expect
There are four main pools here, all warmed by the geothermal heat of Fogo volcano. Three are heated and quite warm, while one is cooler and fed by a small waterfall.
The hot pools are terraced and rust-streaked from the iron-rich water—not dirty, just mineral-heavy.
Visitors soaking in Caldeira Velha’s iron-rich thermal waters, nestled beneath thick canopy
The cooler pool, into which a thin stream cascades, is shallower and a bit brisk, perfect for contrast.
Even during a short visit, many people will alternate between the hot and cold to get the full body reset.
The cold pool at Caldeira Velha is fed by a gentle waterfall and wrapped in dense tropical foliage
Access is limited to timed 90-minute sessions, and it’s a good idea to book at least four days in advance—especially in peak season.
The system works well: while it’s popular, the staggered bookings keep it from feeling overcrowded.
Inside the forest
The first thing you notice, even before you reach the pools, is how thick the forest feels. Caldeira Velha sits in a pocket of dense, subtropical vegetation—a tangle of tree ferns, mossy trunks, lichens, and vines. Some of these plants, like the giant Australian tree ferns, aren’t native but have made themselves at home in the humid microclimate.
Winding paths and giant unfurling ferns make even the walk to Caldeira Velha’s pools a lush rainforest immersion
Others, like Azorean laurels and holly, are part of the island’s native Laurisilva forest, a relict from the Tertiary period and one of the oldest forest types in Europe.
The mix of old and new, native and introduced, gives the forest an almost primeval feel—something both ancient and layered. It’s not just green here. It’s greens within greens. Pale lichen on darker moss. Fronds heavy with mist. Leaves so big they feel cartoonish, pressing in around the boardwalks and trails.
Raindrops sit on everything like tiny magnifiers. You’ll probably see small birds flitting between branches, and sometimes even hear the call of a chaffinch or the flutter of a gray wagtail.
Trails and walking paths
In addition to the soaking pools, there are a few walking paths within the reserve. One leads up toward a viewing platform, with glimpses through the trees toward the valley below. Others wind along the river or toward smaller waterfalls. They’re not long or particularly strenuous—more like immersive pauses in the experience.
The short trail into Caldeira Velha winds through dense laurel forest and giant tree ferns
You don’t need hiking boots, but water shoes or something non-slip is a good idea, especially if you want to explore beyond the pools. The paths are mostly paved with natural stone and can be slippery when wet.
One thing we loved was how well these paths are integrated into the environment. There’s no attempt to flatten the forest or overly groom it. Instead, the trails follow the land’s rhythms, with small wooden bridges, handrails from branches, and moss-covered signs that feel like they’ve grown there too.
Booking info and what to bring
Caldeira Velha is a paid-entry natural park, and advance booking is essential. You can book online directly, and reservations open about a week in advance. Try to reserve at least four days ahead, especially if your schedule is tight.
Once you arrive, you’ll check in at a small reception area, and then walk along a wooden path that leads through the forest toward the pools.
Two pools, two temperatures: a steaming thermal soak beneath the forest canopy, and a brisk plunge
There are changing rooms and lockers available, though they’re pretty minimal—expect something functional, not luxurious.
Towels and swimsuits are not provided, so bring your own. We also recommend sandals or flip flops and a bottle of water.
Because of the iron content in the water, your swimsuit may pick up some orange or rusty discoloration—so this is not the time for your favorite white bikini. Many people bring older swimwear just for this purpose.
What makes Caldeira Velha special
It’s hard to explain, really. The beauty comes from the setting itself—the contrast between the steaming water and the cool forest air, the sound of the waterfall hitting stone, the way the mist rises off the pool and wraps the trees.
Lush ferns tower over the soaking pools, where visitors unwind at eye-level with the undergrowth and treetop canopies alike
For remote workers or travelers spending time on São Miguel, it’s easy to drop into a routine of cafés, coworking, and day trips. Caldeira Velha feels like a reset button. A reminder that this island, even in its most accessible corners, holds these wildly lush spaces that feel untouched—not because no one comes, but because the design has wisely stepped back.
It’s also a beautiful reminder of São Miguel’s geological activity—the same energy that warms these waters is what formed the volcanic spine of the island. The minerals in the water aren’t for show. They’re for skin, for joints, for the calm that seeps into you slowly.
Geothermal water flows into the pools below, feeding Caldeira Velha’s baths with healing trace elements
And it’s a great spot for a midweek break. Whether you live nearby at Lava Coliving or are staying elsewhere on the island, it’s well worth making time for. Pack a towel, grab a slot, and let the forest hold you for a little while.
